La Rochelle: A hidden gem in Southwest France
When you hear the south of France in the summer, usually vacationers are talking about Nice, St. Tropez, and Cannes. And, despite all of the hype and beauty of the East, the southwestern coastal region, especially La Rochelle, hits very different. If you are looking for something a little bit quieter, a smidge more French, a tad cooler, and a lot less touristy, then a trip here is an absolute must. Everything looks like it was painted with a sea-breeze, sand-dusted brush, giving you a total sense of calm and ease.
Having a baby means vacation can often feel, well, not like vacation at all, and this trip surely delivered. We desperately needed a break, and wanted a little bit of everything for our typical European summer holiday - turns out this was a big ask. A new city, vineyards, beach towns, amazing food, and most importantly, a beautiful change of scenery. In two weeks, with babysitter recommendations from the hotel, and our 11th month old in tow, we got it all.
We started off our journey in the port city of Bordeaux, and used it as a base to take day trips to St. Emilion and the Arcachon Bay. Bordeaux is not the most beautiful, but it was very interesting to see a bustling French city that wasn’t Paris. Having a few days alone for those day trips helped us reconnect, and it was so nice to take that mental and physical break, and not have to worry about meltdowns in the car, or having to head back early.
WHERE TO STAY
BORDEAUX
Having never been to Bordeaux, it was tough finding where the best place to stay was because everything on my list for the most part was in one place on the map. I typically don’t like staying in the city center, as it’s usually touristy, overpriced, and overcrowded. But being that Bordeaux is relatively small for this New Yorker, it was nice to be in the center of all the action, and when we got there, I could see why. The heart of Bordeaux was charming, quaint and had the old time feel. It also had endless amazing restaurants and shops.
I usually go the hotel route on vacation, but because it was a two-week trip, we wanted some balance and a place to do laundry for the baby, so staying in our Airbnb right in the center was right for us, giving us a ton of space. Beware this particular one has two floors, and the stairs were quite dangerous with a baby.
For something a little bit more special, Intercontinental is a great option. It has the old France charm, and if you're looking for the luxury option that is still family friendly, this is the place. The rooftop bar has beautiful views of the Opera, and it’s right across from the square. You can go to the spa there and treat yourself, and it is a stone throw away from all of the restaurants and bars. We called about 15 different hotels and this was also the only one to offer babysitting services.
Pro tip: If you go the Airbnb route like we did, call the hotel and request their babysitter - ours was incredible.
LA’ROCHELLE
Maison Des Ambassadeurs was where we stayed in La’Rochelle, and we loved it. The second we arrived we felt like very special guests and were treated as such. The staff is absolutely lovely, and were so accommodating with the baby. They had a babysitting service, a gorgeous bar with amazing cocktails, a delicious (but fancy) restaurant, and a quiet pool for afternoon dips during baby monitor nap time. The family room suite was spacious, they had underground parking for the car, and even free bike rentals with baby seats and helmet.
WHERE TO EAT
BORDEAUX
El Nacional - A 15 minute walk to the neighborhood of Chartrons, has the cities best Argentinian-style steak frites. Skip the massive line that forms outside of L’Entrecote and join the locals here for a more casual but still delicious steak.
Aux quatre coins du vin - If you want to taste wine without the boring wine tasting experience, this self-service wine bar, with employees that have a breadth of knowledge on the various wines is a great spot. You can also just taste everything at your own pace with the press of a button and a swipe of a card. You pay at the end, and if you know a thing or two about wine, you will be pleasantly surprised with your bill.
Berthus was probably my favorite meal in Bordeaux. Unpretentious, amazing, simple local/seasonal food. A 3-course tasting menu for 25 euros, where the food feels fancy, but everything else feels casual and relaxed. Filled with locals, but probably smart to make a reservation.
Madame Pang - If you are sick of French food, or you want to try something different, go to Madame Pang - and go early because they don’t take reservations and a line will form around the block quickly. The service is friendly, the cocktails are amazing, and the food is as delicious as it was unexpected.
On your day trip to St Emilion, stop at La Terrasse Rouge for lunch. Its a 5-10 minute drive from the town, but boy is it gorgeous. The stunning views overlooking the vineyard beat all the restaurants you can go to in the center, and it’s a nice break from the hustle and bustle back in Bordeaux. Oh and the food was absolutely divine.
La Boulangerie the best in the city, with talented and famous miller Frederic Pradeau. We couldn’t help but try almost every pastry we saw behind the glass, but try to bread too - it is famous.
Hotel Restaurant La Co (o) niche - On your day trip to the sea, go here after climbing the Dune of Pilat for lunch (make a reservation). It’s at a beautiful hotel with great food. It’s a little bit pricey, but worth it for the view and ambiance. Don’t forget to get the oysters, they were incredibly fresh. I wish we had time to stay here for a couple nights, it also looks like a lovely hotel. There is a public beach behind there as well, and you can skip the madness of Arcachon. Arcachon is a beautiful little town, but I recommend going here on your way home and walking around for an hour vs. spending your day there. It’s a bit crowded and touristy, especially on the weekends because the train goes right there.
LA ROCHELLE
Annette’s was hands down the best meal we had on the trip. Audrey and her partner Dale, who met working in a restaurant in Amsterdam, came back and started it together in her hometown of La’Rochelle. They change the menu every month, but honestly, we could eat here every night and get the same dish again and again. They both pour their heart and soul into this place and it definitely shows - absolute perfection.
Prao is a little bit hipster, but focuses on local ingredients and sustainable produce with a seasonal menu as well. We enjoyed everything we had, and also reasonably priced pre fix.
Ernest Glacier makes the city’s best ice cream. There are a few in the town, and the line can get long, but it is well worth the wait.
Method is by far the most unsuspecting place we found on the island of Il De Rè (yes it overlooks a parking lot). Method is a casual tapas style restaurant with a notable chef, and the best natural wines and alternative beers. You will see the locals flock here at dusk, and for good reason. Come here for dinner, apertivo, or just to people watch the surfers going out after dawn.
We walked by Aperta on our way home from a lousy meal and regretted not eating here. It has 5 stars and looks like another Annette’s situation. An unsuspecting mouth-watering culinary journey.
WHAT TO DO
BORDEAUX
La Ciudad del Vino - If you are a wine lover, or not, this museum is pretty cool. Again nothing out of this world or life changing but it’s a major attraction for Bordeaux and you can see why when you get there. Complimentary glass of wine with your ticket on the rooftop bar with a great view.
Dune du Pilat - The Dune of Pilat is by far the highest sand dune you can find in Europe. It’s definitely worth checking out, it has breathtaking views and makes you feel like you are in the desert. We were a little surprised there were no camels. Go early, beat the crowds and the heat, and plan for about an hour. You just climb up, take in the views, snap some pictures, and head to lunch about a 6 minute drive away at Hotel Restaurant La Co(co) niche. Then relax, digest at Plage de la Corniche before driving to check out the cute seaside town of Arcechon - it’s a bit touristy, but for a reason. Lots of cute little shops and restaurants and having a stroll there will make you fairly happy.
LA ROCHELLE
Vieux Marche de La Rochelle - Just walk by the daily market and get some fruit on your way to the park. Wednesday and Saturday are the busiest days and have the most vendors. It’s a lively place and wonderful to see how the locals shop for produce and other goodies. La Gerbe de Ble is the restaurant where you can grab some of the freshest seafood and have some amazing people watching.
Take a bike ride to the different beaches with your baby in tow. The bike rides on the beaches were probably a highlight of the trip:
Plage de la Concurrence - super close beach to the hotel - a really quick bike ride or a little walk- right before the bike path gets pretty.
Plage Chef de Baie - the bike ride here was gorgeous.
Aquarium - We were told by a local that the aquarium in La Rochelle was magnificent. To be honest it was just cute and definitely worth checking out for the little ones, but nothing to write home about. If you are looking for a quick little rainy day activity, bike over there and check it out. They have strollers, and it felt nice to do something just for the baby.
Il De Rè- It was like the Hamptons in France and I love every minute of it. It’s such a quick easy trip from the hotel that we went twice. You can take your time driving from town to town and chilling on the beaches and eating in between but here were my favorite parts.
The nice beaches that weren’t salt marshes were a little bit further. Maybe it was the tide, but don’t waste your time like we did trying to set up camp anywhere other than Plage de Trousse-Chemise. It was full of locals, parking was easy, and the sand was perfect.
Check out the little towns:
La Flotte - there is a cute little linen store we got a beach blanket at and I wish I would have gotten more. The man working there was so friendly as well.
Ars-en-Rè
Saint-Martin-de-Rè
